Charleston, S.C. — In many Southern households, the kitchen becomes a hub of activity and emotion during the holiday season, where old recipes and fond memories blend together. This sentiment rings particularly true for Tanner and Elizabeth Hicklin, a couple celebrating their first Christmas with Elizabeth’s family in Charleston, who are weaving Tanner’s family traditions into their festive gatherings.
Elizabeth reflects on how food serves as a medium of love in her family, with each dish bringing back vivid memories of loved ones and past celebrations. For instance, the unique tang of a Bloody Mary at her grandmother’s wet bar on Christmas day or the sweet laborious task of hulling oranges in her mother’s sunny kitchen remains etched in her memory.
This year, the focus shifted to introducing Tanner to these cherished traditions while incorporating elements from his own family heritage. Upon consulting with Tanner’s mother, Elizabeth learned that boiled custard was a holiday staple in Tanner’s family, crafted lovingly by his grandfather, Hack.
Boiled custard, a treat unknown to many outside certain Southern regions, particularly in Southern Appalachia, is a thick yet pourable dessert made simply from milk, eggs, sugar, and vanilla. It straddles the line between the richness of crème brûlée and the lightness of eggnog. Tanner’s family’s version is traditionally enriched with a touch of bourbon, a nod to his teetotaling Baptist ancestors who allowed themselves this small indulgence during festive times.
The preparation of this custard is a slow, careful process that requires continuous stirring to prevent the mixture from boiling and curdling the eggs. Hack taught this patience and technique to Tanner and his siblings, ensuring the custard reached just the right consistency, a process taking over an hour. Stored in repurposed peppermint candy jars, Hack’s custard became a symbol of holiday anticipation.
Last year, Elizabeth’s mother ventured to recreate this cherished recipe for Tanner. Though her initial attempts were slightly challenging, producing a thinner consistency than desired, she persevered, enhancing her technique over time and adding her own twist, such as serving the custard with toasted pound cake and a generous splash of bourbon, much like Tanner’s family did.
Through these efforts, a new tradition has begun to root itself in Elizabeth’s family, honoring past generations while welcoming new members. Like this past Christmas when her son, named after Hack, had his first taste of the custard, marking the blending of five generations of familial culinary tradition.
Such stories attest to the power of food in preserving and evolving family traditions, acting as a bridge not only between generations but also between different family cultures, enriching the collective family heritage.
This recipe, and the stories around it are more than just culinary procedures; they are the threads that connect the fabric of a family’s narrative, keeping memories alive through the simple act of sharing a meal.
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